#6 Et Maintenant Nos Terres fait des émules au Nigéria

« Frères », « généraux » et « commandants » à l’ombre des palmiers 

Après quelques changements de motos, du rond-point Deido à Douala jusqu’à Souza puis de Souza jusqu’au village de Mbonjo 2, nous finissons par retrouver Emmanuel Elong. Chef de file de la contestation paysanne à la Socapalm, l’entreprise camerounaise de production d’huile de palme créée dans les années 1970 et qui s’étend sur 6 000 hectares. Emmanuel appartient aux locaux opposés à la politique d’expansion des parcelles de palmiers qui empêchent les agriculteurs locaux de faire pousser leurs propres plans.

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Emmanuel Elong.

On fait connaissance autour d’une omelette – pain – café sucré, puis nous filons vers le camp de la Socapalm où les ouvriers sont tous logés quand ils ne sont pas originaires du coin. Nous nous présentons les uns aux autres, Emmanuel nous introduit à ses « frères », ses « généraux » et ses « commandants ». Il nous parle de l’action engagée avec l’ONG française de juristes Sherpa depuis 2010, la plainte déposée auprès de l’OCDE (Organisation de Coopération et de Développement Économiques) et le « plan d’action » qui en a découlé.

L’action du ReAct (Réseaux pour l’action collective transnationale), qui coordonne la mise en commun des revendications de villageois riverains des plantations liées au groupe Bolloré dans cinq pays africains et asiatiques, en est le prolongement. Emmanuel nous explique que c’est en regardant la page de Et Maintenant Nos Terres, qu’une organisation riveraine analogue au Nigéria, croyant qu’il s’agissait du site d’une ONG, a décidé de se rallier à la cause commune.


Emmanuel Elong, initiateur du Synaparcam-Bolloré (Syndicat National des Paysans et Riverains du Cameroun)

Les bananes de la Boh Plantation direction le Nord de la France

Réveil sous des trombes d’eau le matin. On nous initie au vin de palme et à l’alcool de raphia (80 degrés tout même), de quoi se mettre un coup de vif à 8h. Après un petit-déjeuner de galettes d’haricots dites Koki (cuisinées à l’huile de palme avec du poivre et des piments) et de manioc servis chauds dans une feuille de bananier, nous traversons le Moungo. Une traversée en pirogue plus tard, nous passons de l’ancien Cameroun Occidental au Cameroun oriental – le pays ayant continué à être divisé en deux une dizaine d’années après l’indépendance (de la France le 1er janvier 1960, du Royaume-Uni le 1er octobre 1961). Mbonjo était anciennement un poste frontière entre les deux Cameroun, qui se sont finalement réunis en 1972.

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Boh Plantations.

En face de Mbonjo, les 3 000 hectares de bananeraie Boh Plantation (créée en 2009, propriété à 100% camerounaise). Nous faisons le tour du propriétaire et prenons nos premières images de plantations à perte de vue. Une fois les régimes (grappes entières de bananes coupées directement sur les bananiers) ramassés, ils sont triés (seules les bananes les moins mûres partent pour l’Europe, les autres sont écoulés sur les marchés locaux) et empaquetés, direction le Port de Douala, puis le Nord de la France et de la Belgique. Transportées en conteneurs frigorifiques, elles sont plongées dans des bains d’éthylène à leur arrivée pour leur donner un petit peps de maturation avant mise en rayons.

Gadoue de partout, nos tennis en toile sont un peu dépassés par la situation. Vautres assurées, sans dégâts pour la caméra, sous les vrombissements de l’avion de la CDC (Cameroon Development Cooperation, l’une des premières entreprises nationales productrices de thé, caoutchouc, d’huile de palme et de bananes !) qui se charge d’épandre du fongicide sur les hectares de bananiers. Sans épargner les habitants des villages au passage.

Francis Cabrel à fond au petit matin

Chemin inverse en moto après une longue marche sans s’être mis une goutte d’eau dans le gosier. Arrivé à Missaka, le village où loge une partie de la famille d’Emmanuel, nous accueillons les deux litres d’eau que nous y trouvons comme une délivrance.

De retour à 13h à Mbonjo 2, direction cette fois les plantations de palmiers, celles des villageois et celles de la Socapalm qui se mangent les unes les autres. Emmanuel nous fait découvrir les anciens villages engloutis par les hectares de la Socapalm, les églises en ruine et les tombes enfouies sous des hauteurs de chienlit.

Honneurs et hiérarchies obligent, nous acceptons toutes sortes d’interviews auxquelles nous n’avions pas du tout songé. Ainsi des chefs de villages que nous devons saluer. Idem des « Papas » les plus âgés, ceux qui ont refusé  de quitter leur maison avec l’arrivée des palmiers, ceux qui ont travaillé vingt ans à la Socapalm avant de la quitter, et ainsi de suite. Des minutes de rush qui s’accumulent mais dont a priori nous ne ferons rien, sauf bonne surprise au premier visionnage.

De bon matin, en allant se laver au marigot, dans le Moungo qui sépare les régions Littoral et Sud Ouest, on entend du Cabrel sortir d’une des quelques maisons en dur du village. Plus loin, c’est le tube du moment à fond les ballons. Il est 9h, une nouvelle journée commence. Nous restons à Mbonjo une semaine.

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Soirée au campement de la Socapalm.

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Soirée au campement de la Socapalm.

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Soirée au campement de la Socapalm.

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Soirée au campement de la Socapalm.

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