#8 Instantanés : jumeaux parfaits, natalité et bureau du Senior Divisional Officer

Jumeaux parfaits et parties de jambes en l’air 

« Lui c’est un jumeau parfait. Quand il a fini de cogner, il fait comme s’il allait pisser, et son frère revient à sa place auprès de sa chérie. »

Blagues autour d’une bière un soir à Mbonjo. Les hommes finissent par appeler une femme, et lui disent de venir s’asseoir à côté de nous. Elle nous attrape les cuisses comme des jambonneaux, avant finalement de se raviser devant notre peu de réactions.

 Natalité : discussion Afrique – Europe

Discussion arrosée d’alcool de raphia sur les enfants, et quand et combien on en a. Comparaison entre Europe et Afrique. En face de nous, elle a 42 ans, et est déjà mère de six enfants. « J’attends mon septième ». Le père, agriculteur, se tient à côté, l’un des petits dans les bras. Sa seule fille attend déjà son deuxième enfant à l’âge de 22 ans. « Mais beaucoup de filles ici au village ont leur premier enfant à 16 ans. Il y a ici un Papa qui a 11 enfants, plus quelques-uns dans les villages voisins ». Rires.

De notre côté, on explique que la France  est le pays le plus fécond d’Europe, mais que les femmes y accouchent en moyenne à l’âge de 30 ans. Ça fait rire toute l’assemblée, sauf quand on parle d’avortement.

Au milieu, par terre, une gosse traînasse dans des quenouilles déchirées. Le sujet est drôle ce matin, mais en vrai pas du tout. Il y avait 300 millions d’Africains en 1960. Ils étaient un milliard en 2009. Ils seront deux milliards en 2050, un cinquième des neuf milliards de Terriens que nous compterons alors.

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Senior divisional officer

La scène se passe dans le bureau du SDO (Senior divisional officer) de Mundemba. Il nous a été dit qu’il est possible de visiter les plantations et l’unité de transformation de la Pamol, géant du palmier à huile camerounais dont une partie des milliers d’hectares sont localisés dans le Sud-Ouest. Avant, il est nécessaire d’obtenir l’autorisation du SDO, l’équivalent d’un sous-préfet. Nous sommes accompagnés de Verine, étudiant en géologie qui veut percer dans le pétrole (au propre comme au figuré). Pour le moment, il a dû mettre un coup d’arrêt à son parcours, faute de pouvoir se financer. Une ou deux journées de courses de moto à notre compte contribueront (très très) modestement à le ramener sur les bancs de l’université.

Arrivée à 15h dans les hauteurs de Mundemba ; dans le Sud-Ouest, le Cameroun est vallonné, le Mont Cameroun proche culminant à plus de 4 000 mètres.

« Asseyez-vous », nous dit l’une des deux secrétaires du SDO, en indiquant le salon d’attente. « Le SDO est occupé, il faut attendre quelques minutes ». Une demi-heure se passe, sans que rien ne se passe. A notre demande timide sur la suite des événements, nous accédons au bureau de l’administratif. Il tousse et attend que nous expliquions la raison de notre présence.

Nous nous exécutons.

« All right, but I need a request », seront ses seuls mots.

Nous sommes invités à quitter le bureau aussi sec et à établir une demande écrite officielle.

« En français ou en anglais ? », s’enquiert-on auprès des deux secrétaires.

« Comme vous voulez », dit la première.

Puis finalement, quelques minutes après : « Write the request in English », dit la deuxième, anglophone.

Verine, lui, a été dépêché pour acheter un timbre fiscal de 1 000 francs CFA, « pour le Trésor ».

Nous nous attelons donc à un texte très officiel dans les restes de notre King English. Le secrétaire anglophone tape de son côté un formulaire qui sera joint à la demande, et scanne nos passeports.

Deux heures ont filé. Les deux documents sont attachés à un parapheur et renvoyés dans le bureau du SDO. Nous l’entrapercevrons juste deux minutes plus tard en train d’indiquer au militaire à la pétoire à l’entrée de le rejoindre dans son bureau.

Deux autorisations nous sont remises, au cas où nous perdrions une.

« Our regards to the SDO », lâche-t-on avant de tourner les talons.

« Il est parti maintenant ».

Le lendemain, arrivés à la plantation en question, distante de 14 kilomètres de Mundemba même, l’Estate manager fait des aller-retour entre nous et l’autorisation qu’il a devant les yeux. « I cannot make any decision myself. You would require the general manager’s authorisation but he is out of the country ».

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